San Millán de la Cogolla, La Rioja (1)
Cradle of the Castilian and pantheon of the seven Castilian heroes
Together with the Monastery of Yuso, it forms part of the monumental complex of the Monastery of San Millán. Located in the same village of San Millán de La Cogolla, in the valley of Cárdenas, in the foothills of the Sierra de la Demanda, the Monastery of Suso rises above the rock itself under the protection of Mount Degercio. The old monastery was built by San Millán to give shelter to all the disciples that accompanied him, they were caves excavated in the hollows of the mount, where at the moment the cenotafilo and the ossuary are located. The first construction itself, corresponds to the sixth and seventh centuries, Visigothic period.
In the tenth century and based on the Visigothic monastery, the Mozarabic was built, consecrating the church in the year 959. In the year 1.002 Almanzor set fire to the monastery and Sancho III el Mayor, in the year 1030, it was restored and extended in the Romanesque period. In the 11th-12th centuries, walls and semicircular arches were added before the primitive caves of the monastery.
The interior of the temple is accessed by a horseshoe arch, which, it is said, still shows the effects of the fire caused by Almanzor. But before entering the church, in the gallery or porticoed atrium, we can contemplate the picturesque view that the valley offers us on one side and on the other and attached to the wall, the lined sepulchres of the seven infants of Lara, his mentor Nuño, as well as that of three queens from Navarre.
Inside the church, whose irregular layout is imposed by the rock where the building is located, are the caves, in the central, which seems to be that in the early times served as an oratory to the Saint and where he was buried, rose in the twelfth century, the current "cenotaph", which is a funerary monument representing San Millán lying.
Gonzalo de Berceo wrote in San Millán the first verses in Spanish: Quiero fer una prosa en román paladino, en el cual suele el pueblo fablar con su vecino, ca non so letrado por fer otro latino bien valdrá, como creo, un vaso de bon vino.
In order to visit the monastery it is necessary to reserve day and hour
The visits are guided, the monastery cannot be accessed in a private vehicle, it is necessary to take the bus that leaves from the car park of the central reservations
The visit lasts approximately 40 minutes
Summer timetable
Winter opening hours
Visitor management
The story revolves around the 7 Infantes de Lara, a family dispute and the thirst for revenge, which according to legend, triggers the capture of the seven children of the noble Gonzalo Gustioz by the Muslims in an ambush, transferred to Cordoba, were beheaded. The corpses were transferred to Castile and deposited in stone tombs in the portico of the monastery of San Millán de La Cogolla de Suso.
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San Millán de la Cogolla can be reached via the LR-331 from Bobadilla or following the LR-205 from the nearby town of Berceo, where the different access roads converge from the A-12 way dual carriageway and the N-120 between Logroño and Burgos, well signposted as "Ruta de los Monasterios" (Route of the Monasteries). We can arrive by the LR-206 from Azofra or Santo Domingo de la Calzada and from Nájera by the LR-113, which joins it with Salas de los Infantes, taking the detour of the LR-205 that will take us to Berceo and then to San Millán de la Cogolla, which also has an interurban bus service every day.
The enclosure of the monastery is located on the other side of the accesses to the town of San Millán de la Cogolla, so we must cross it from side to side by its main street or by the road that surrounds it and that we will find, as we come from Berceo, a little before reaching the town. This road will lead us directly to the entrance to the Monastery of Yuso, where we will find the information centre and next to it a car park where we can leave our vehicle. From here leaves the bus that will take us to the Monastery of Suso.
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