The first stage of the French Way integrally by the singular plateau Castellana, that took us to cross from Burgos up to Hontanas an endless fields of cultivation, in which the high mountains that accompanied us up to here have left step to a plain that extends as far as we can see. The small hills together with some solitary tree break a landscape that, on the other hand, offers a beautiful perspective, along with some beautiful sunrises and sunsets of the day.
Step by step we are approaching the limits of the province of Burgos crossing Castilian towns loaded with history linked to the Jacobean route. The stage 12 Burgos-Hontanas of the Way of Saint James with 31,9 Km leaves next to the Cathedral of Burgos that bids us farewell, as it could not be otherwise, showing us part of its treasures, as they are the temple of San Nicolás or the herreriano arch of Fernán González, first count of Castile. The bridge of Malatos serves us to cross the Arlanzón and to introduce us in the beautiful park of El Parral, near the famous Convent of the Strikes of Gothic style, that will take us until the Hospital of the King and its plateresque cover of 1526. The hermitage of San Amaro pilgrim takes us definitively out of Burgos, leading us towards the outskirts of Villalbilla de Burgos, a town through which the Way of Saint James used to pass in the past and which has now partly recovered its original layout along the banks of the Arlanzón River. After saying goodbye to the pleasant freshness provided by the poplar trees on the banks of the river, the route goes as far as Tardajos, welcoming us with a typical French Way cruise.
The locality, located on an old Roman town that was located in the middle of the Roman road that joined Clunia with Juliobriga, shows us its history linked to the pilgrims. The church of Santa María de la Asunción from the 16th century marks the route that crosses the town towards the nearby Rabé de las Calzadas, where the palace of the Count of Villariezo, from the beginning of the 17th century, awaits us. The inhabitants receive us proud of their parish church dedicated to Santa Marina and of the hermitage next to the cemetery, which keeps the image of Our Lady of the Monastery. From here the French Way enters an immense plain broken by small hills. At the top of one of these hills we find a humilladero and the view of Hornillos del Camino, at the bottom of the valley formed by the river Ruyales. The town stretches along the Way of Saint James allowing us to enjoy its sturdy houses and the late Gothic church of San Román.
The extensive plateau invades everything again, leaving small orchards such as that of the stream of San Bol where the monastery of San Boal or San Baudilio was located in the past. Hontanas, with its curious church of the Immaculate Conception of Gothic origin but reformed in neoclassical style, breaks partly with the plain, as it is situated in a valley that seems to us to be steeper than it really is, undoubtedly affected by the kilometres travelled up to here.
The exit from a big city, and Burgos is not an exception, it becomes long and complicated, the itinerary meanders through the streets making it difficult to follow it without making a mistake, even being well signposted. The stage begins next to the back of Burgos Cathedral (0h 00min), where we arrived in the previous stage.
From here our way continues straight on following the street of Fernán González that leaves behind the cathedral and the church of San Nicolás and changes its good firm for the uncomfortable paved one.
We pass by one of the gates of the wall that are still conserved to walk without diverting a pleasant walk that takes us to another of the gates of the city.
As soon as we cross it, we find ourselves on the left hand side with some stairs where we go down to continue the gentle descent down Emperador Street, which is opposite them.
This long street leaves the monastery of the Benedictine sisters behind and continues until it meets another crossroads, at which point we have to turn left to continue along the Villalón street that leads us to the Arlanzón River.
But before reaching it we have to be careful, since at the next crossroads the Way still does not deviate by this street that turns a little to the right and the marks in the crossroads can confuse us, because wanting to point out the pedestrian crossing what they really seem to do is to tell us to continue by the street on the left, when we have to go straight.
Once this crossroads has been crossed, Villalón Street flows into the alameda that accompanies the flow of the river. Just in front of us, hidden among the leafy grove, we find the bridge where we cross to the other bank.
As soon as we cross the river, the old N-120 that joined Burgos and León, now converted into the wide Avda. de José María Villacín Rebollo, stands in our way. On the other side we see the military hospital of Burgos, in front of it the walls of the Parral park and a small door through which we access it.
We have the option to follow the route of the avda. but we will miss a beautiful and pleasant walk. The Way crosses, parallel to the avda., this park leaving it by a wide street marked on each side by a row of robust and leafy trees.
As soon as we cross the door of the enclosure we see in front of us the wayside shrine of San Amaro Pilgrim and on our left the building of the Rectorate of the University of Burgos. We have to go towards the nearby avda. that awaits us on our right to, when we reach it, recover the direction of the march and cross under the bridge of the old railway line.
Following the bicycle lane, the avda. takes us definitively out of Burgos. After passing a roundabout we arrive at a crossroads where the avda, already converted into a road, turns left. At this point you have to leave it and cross to the right, continue along Benito Pérez Galdós street, which starts at this point.
This street follows the rectilinear route that brought us here, escorted on one side by the last buildings of the city and on the other by, it could be said, the last area of trees that we will find in a few kilometers.
Without deviating at any time the street gives way to a dirt track that we will not abandon in any of the roads that come out to meet it.
This track ends with a road next to a conditioned park around a small chapel. Not long ago in this place the Way was diverted from its traditional itinerary, to go towards the nearby Villalvilla de Burgos by the road on our left that leads to it. From there, always by road, you will come across the original route of the Way of Saint James a little further on.
Now the works on the dual carriageway have recovered part of the traditional layout that avoids running along the road. At this point, leaving on our left the road that leads to this town, a pedestrian crossing allows us to cross to the other side and continue along the dirt track that begins next to a small stream.
This track leaves behind the hermitage and the park to go, looking to the left Villalvilla de Burgos, towards the new railway line. When we reach its height we find a road that comes from the nearby town and crosses the track thanks to a small tunnel.
Leaving the road and just crossing this tunnel begins to our left another dirt track where we follow.
This dirt track, wedged between the railway track and the dual carriageway, continues to cross cereal fields until it reaches a crossroads.
At this point the Way makes us follow the track to the right, to go to cross over the nearby highway that awaits us a few meters ahead.
Once crossed the highway we will quickly arrive at a new crossing where we will turn again, this time to our left, to return in search of the company of the highway.
Now we see ourselves advancing parallel to the dual carriageway as we approach the junction and bridges that we must cross. Luckily for now we do not have to face the always dangerous road junctions.
After crossing under the different bridges and tunnels of this network of roads we will see ourselves leaving behind us some path while we go towards the banks of the river Arlanzón.
Once again we will see ourselves passing under a new dual carriageway to partly follow the course of the river in search of the next junction that we have to find, junction in which we have to follow the path on our right.
Leaving the dual carriageway behind us, we come across the old national road, which we must cross and so follow on the other side the path that will take us across the river to continue along the road that leads us to the first locality of the day.
The route, leaving on the left some crossroads reaches the height of one of the so characteristic cruises of the French Way. From there it continues next to the national road through the first buildings of the town. When you reach a small square, turn left and continue a few metres down the street, leaving the road behind us.
This curious double-height street takes us to a crossroads where the route turns to the right and continues along the Calle Real that definitively introduces us to Tardajos (2h 45min).
Following Calle Real we reach a large square, the route through the town goes straight on along the narrow street in front of us towards the church whose tower stands out from the houses.
The Way continues straight ahead next to the church, leaving all the streets to the right and left.
Shortly after saying goodbye to the church, the street leads us to the road that leads us to the next town on the stage.
On reaching the road, the route continues along it, turning left and bidding farewell to Tardajos.
The itinerary follows at all times the course of the road, which in a long and continuous ascent runs through an area of urbanizations.
At the end of this gentle ascent the route describes a curve to find a street on your right, where it continues, and a little further on the square and the town hall.
This first street takes us to the interior of Rabé de las Calzadas (3h 15min), where the route, leaving behind a fountain, goes straight on along a narrow street that leads us to a wide and beautiful square.
Another long stretch awaits us with no intermediate points that leads us, between fields and hills, to the next town. Just at the end of the square, as we reach it, the street that takes us out of Rabé begins to the right.
The route leaves the locality behind between agricultural pavilions, leaving it definitively passing by the cemetery of Rabé de las Calzadas.
The route follows the main dirt track without deviating from any of the numerous paths that we find in our way.
The well-defined dirt track, with good road surface, gradually gains height with the typical ups and downs that, without being so pronounced, is reminiscent of previous stages.
The track is gaining heightThe area, free of shade, offers us a small oasis where we can refresh and rest, the Praotorre fountain is the last shaded area we will find in a long time.
The route follows the uncomfortable ascent that takes us to the top of a hill from where we enjoy magnificent views that include the still distant town of Hornillos.
It is time to start the descent towards it, the track in this area although better than years ago is still somewhat cobbled and it is better to take it easy the first ramps, the steepest.
Step by step, the path softens its unevenness and recovers its relatively good road surface, approaching the crossroads with the road that gives access to the locality, but not before leaving behind some path or other.
The narrow road leads us to the nearby town and converted into Calle Real, it leads us to Hornillos del Camino (5h 25min).
This locality is usually the final point of the stage given the distance that separates us from the next inhabited nucleus, so it is advisable to assess well if we continue.
We do not leave the straight Calle Real that takes us out of Hornillos del Camino until the end of it, where the route leaves a track that goes straight on to continue on the right.
Shortly after leaving the locality and after passing a water well, the route leaves the main track to continue to its left for another that undertakes a gentle ascent that takes us to half slope between two rounded hills.
This section will not stop ascending until it reaches a plateau whose beginning is marked by curious mounds of stones.
This part of the route, where our vision is lost in the horizon, encounters a large number of tracks that we will leave behind us.
The plateau seems to come to an end when we find the humilladero that marks the beginning of a new and cobbled descent. From this point we can see another small oasis of the path, which although separated from it by a few 300 m, the hot summer days is shown as a recommended detour.
The fast descent takes us to the crossroads with the path that leads to the orchard of San Bol that we leave to our left to begin a new ascent towards a new plain. When we reach it, we will take the straight road crossing a lonely road.
Leaving to both sides how many dirt roads we found, we continued the walk passing near the wind mills that seemed so far back.
The next locality is not shown before us until we reach the apex of this plateau. At this moment, leaving aside the path we are taking, we descend towards the hollow where Hontanas is situated, through a andadero that avoids a long curve in the path.
This andadero becomes the Calle Real that takes us next to the church of Hontanas (7h 35min) where this stage ends.
Our route through the interior of Burgos will mark the final distance of the stage.
It is a long stage and if we need it we can come to rest and refres:ourselves until the area of San Bol, to the time of rest we will have to add a few 20 minutes of round trip.
The beginning of autumn and the end of spring are the most pleasant months to visit these lands. To the colorful fields are added the softness of the days that allow us to enjoy the route. Summer and winter show all the harshness of this area wit:its demanding conditions.
We can not miss the protection for the sun, cap, sunglasses and sunscreen, along wit:the canteen wit:water, are our most precious companions. The terrain allows the stage to be carried out practically in its entirety wit:more comfortable footwear, unless the rain leaves parts of the dirt road very muddy and even waterlogged. For the rest the habitual thing, clothes and sport footwear according to the time of the year and to the meteorology, backpack, canes. Consult our list of material and equipment to make the Way. Read more
The hardness of this stage lies in the distance to whic:we have to add the weather conditions that we can find. The virtual absence of shaded areas makes it a toug:test on hot days. Without great unevennesses to save that are concentrated in a pair of valleys, the descents are more pronounced than the to go gained height that is made smoother. It is important to calculate our forces very well before venturing to the next locality, since the distance between them, especially those at the end, is important.
Every exit from a big city is a moment of precaution, we have to be attentive to the signs so as not to get lost in it, but that does not have to make us forget that the traffic is intense and there are many streets to cross. In the past, the stretc:of road was greater than the one we are now forced to travel, even so they are roads without hard shoulders and where we do not have to trust ourselves, no matter how little traffic we see. Watc:out for the water, we won't find many fountains and those that exist don't ensure their consumption or availability. The two most pronounced descents that we will make, althoug:they are not so strong wit:others that we have left behind, they are the sections in whic:we will find the worst firm, wit:quite a lot of loose stone.
Leaving behind a big city is always complicated, are many crosses and even if well signposted cause more than some absent-minded. In some crossings in Burgos the signs, more than indicating the street to follow, indicate the pedestrian crossing to use to continue the correct way, the river can be our reference in case of doubt, since the Way of Saint James goes up its channel to its passage by the city. The rest of the Frenc:Way is along tracks throug:fields and in almost all the crossings we do not have to deviate.
|1-Burgos||0:00h||875m||0Km||30T 442021 4688014|
|2-Tardajos||2:45h||825m||11.7Km||30T 432618 4688868|
|3-Rabé de Las Calzadas||3:15h||835m||13.7Km||30T 431191 4687848|
|4-Hornillos Del Camino||5:25h||830m||21.4Km||30T 423692 4687777|
|5-Hontanas||7:35h||870m||31.9Km||30T 413922 4685027|
Coordinates UTM Datum WGS84
This sketc:of the route is not made to scale nor does it contain all the information relating to the area, it is merely indicative.
This schematic wit:the pat:is approximate and has been created from the derived cartographic base © Instituto Geográfico Nacional "Cuadrantes 199,200, 237 y 238, 1:50.000".
Senditur has manipulated the tracks to correct the aberrant points that may exist, caused by problems wit:the reception of the GPS signal. In any case the tracks are always approximate. SENDITUR encourages you to use the new technologies within your reach, using them as support and consultation in your activity, not basing the realization and orientation of the same only and exclusively on them, since they may see their functioning altered by very diverse causes, not functioning correctly and their indications may not be precise.
La verdad es que esta etapa del Camino de Santiago me resulto una de las más duras de todo el Camino Frances. No sé si fue por tantos kilómetros seguidos entre pueblo y pueblo, pero Hontanas no aparecía nunca.
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¿Did you know that...
In the past, the stretch between Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas was somewhat complicated because between the two towns in Burgos is the river Urbel, which is very flooded, leaving the land as if it were a marshy area. Hence the saying, From Tardajos to Rabé liberates us, Domine; and from Rabé to Tardajos, you will not lack jobs.
Don't miss out...
The visit to the convent of Las Huelgas in Burgos, founded by Alfonso VIII and Leonor de Plantagenet. The visit goes through the Royal Pantheon, the Chapterhouse and the chapel of Santiago or the Claustrillas. The Cistercian complex of buildings ranges from Romanesque to Gothic, with its imposing tower standing out.
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This route has been carried out in the field by SENDITUR on 22-09-2018. The route may vary greatly depending on the time of year, weather conditions and terrain, as well as the actions of third parties and the evolution suffered in the natural environment where it is located. All opinions, advice and/or assessments made by SENDITUR in their descriptions are for guidance only and are subject to and/or refer to the specific conditions of the specific day of the route, referring to that specific day, taken from trained people, with the appropriate experience and with a high level of physical and technical preparation as a reference, as well as correctly equipped.
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